There comes a time in the year when all you want to do is stay in your room or office all day because it is an infinitely better alternative than the weather outside. This is one of those times. Any desire to leave the warmth of the indoors has got to be driven by something worthwhile. Like food. Like eyes-out-of-your-head inducing good food. A few of these require some patience, but good things come to those who wait!
5 King Street (at 6th Avenue)
The new kid on the block, Charlie Bird has been racking up some serious street cred on the New York circuit – and it’s not disappointing. It looks like Chef Ryan Hardy is building Charlie Bird to be a West Village stalwart, as its relaxed and laid-back atmosphere is amped up by astoundingly well-executed and creative food. Head here for rustic Italian cooking with a cheeky spin – crab and squid ink pasta is served with chilli oil, while raw diver scallops is drizzled with browned butter. Reservations need to be made about two to three weeks in advance – if you want the prime dinner slots – so be ready to plan ahead. Don’t be intimidated by the fashionista in the fur hat trying to get a table – chances are there’s someone as casually dressed as you are, so all is fair game.
Pro-tip: Get the raw diver scallops, which run the gamut of flavors, and the grilled octopus, which is succulent and unforgettable.
23 Commerce Street (at Bedford Street)
Any self-respecting sushi/Japanese food fan will know that Jiro Dreams of Sushi is the ultimate homage to food. But the 10 seats in Jiro’s Tokyo outpost is close to impossible to get (unless you’re capable of buying tickets and knowing your schedule months in advance, and knowing New York, I wouldn’t put it past some people). In November, Jiro’s apprentice Nakazawa (who was seen making the omelette in the film) opened his own 10 seater in the West Village, drawing throngs of sushi devotees to the small space. If you’ve decided to venture here, you’re probably not concerned with the price – but all else equal, you SHOULD be concerned about actually getting a reservation.
Pro-tip: Make your reservations a month in advance or you’ll get no time with Nakazawa.
15 East 17th Street (between Broadway and 5th Avenue)
It’s no secret that I have a soft spot for Malaysian food. The curries, the chaos of the cuisine, and the indiscernible flavors that are involved, make Malaysian food some of the most exciting things to eat. When I found out that Laut had undergone some serious kitchen and management changes over the summer – which resulted in better, more authentic food – I was determined to head over. And boy is this the best Malaysian food in New York. Laut’s menu isn’t nearly as comprehensive as Nyonya’s or Malay Restaurant in Flushing, but what little they have, they execute decisively. Curry laksa was creamy enough without being overwhelming; their fried Indian noodles is what you’d find in the late-night eateries in Kuala Lumpur or Penang. (As a Penangnite, that’s high praise.) The downside is that it’s pricier than the other Malaysian restaurants around – but hey if you’re getting the real deal, why not pay for it.
Pro-tip: Bring at least four friends to truly experience the breadth of their menu. Try their roti tisu (unlike anything you’ve seen, so withold your judgement for a moment), assam pedas, curry laksa, and coconut pudding. Ask your server what a Malaysian would order. You won’t be disappointed.
37 Canal Street
Chinatown is probably the last place you’d expect to see a New American restaurant with a Nordic-trained chef. But Skal manages to defy conventions while seeming comfortable in its contradictions. Where the menu is deliberate, almost Nordic in its style, the atmosphere is anything but. The unassuming decor attracts a younger, more casual crowd. Glancing in from the outside, you’d never be able to tell Chef Ben Spiegel interned at the famed Noma. Perhaps that’s a good thing. Duck wings and pork shoulder serve to point out Skal’s American roots; but ‘goth mayonaise‘ (as described by New York Times writer Ligaya Mishan) underneath the duck, remind you that the restaurant still rests on fundamentals of Nordic innovation. Steady your wallet and be prepared to have it take a hammering.
Pro-tip: Check in advance for openings; While the restaurant’s roots are Icelandic – there isn’t much of Iceland in sight. Which I’m grateful for, considering they’re well-known for eating fermented herring.
Tagged: Charlie Bird, italian, laut, Malaysian, nakazawa, new york, nordic, Skal, sushi
